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Glue On Bails and Pendant Plates
Design considerations when choosing a glueable bail (pendant plate) for your custom design:
Larger and/or textured surfaces provide a strong, solid gluing foundation.
When gluing, 2-part epoxies generally provide the longest-lasting, most durable bond.
Beavertail bails (and some styles of bead caps with loop) can be folded over items that vary in size and thickness, such as natural agates and shells.
Most of our larger glue-pad bails have an offset loop so your heavier (or thicker) items, such as glass or ceramic creations, hang properly.
Drop Loops are small, inexpensive findings that help you turn your specialty item into a charm, pendant, connector or dangling drop.
The 10mm drop loop with center hole is ideal for pointed-back items, or for hot glue or silicone rubber use.
The smaller oval drop loop can be glued onto nearly any flat-backed item, and the chain tab can be a good solution when you have an even smaller gluing surface.
About the metals and plating colors:
Sterling silver, sometimes stamped .925 or simply 925, is an alloy of at least 92.5% silver. The remaining 7.5% is usually copper. All of our sterling silver is nickel-free, cadmium-free, lead-free, and meets the EU Nickel Directive. Sterling silver is a soft, easy to work with metal, which can be antiqued to a dark black or polished to a bright shine.
Silver plate is a layer of genuine sterling or fine silver, so it nicely matches sterling silver findings, but will oxidize (tarnish) over time, just like sterling silver.
White plate is slightly grayer than silver plate, but is popular because it is very tarnish resistant.
Gold plate is an actual layer of gold, so is often more expensive than Yellow plate. They are similar shades, but when possible, stick with all finish (gold or yellow) for the best match in a single piece of jewelry.
Antiqued brass and Antiqued pewter finishes are perfect when you need a darker, antique look.
Gunmetal plating is the darkest, and although it varies from a dark gray to a blue-black, it mixes well with everything!
Super glues (cyanoacrylate glues) are best for surfaces that fit exactly together (no gaps), or where you need just a small dab for extra security.
Two-part epoxies require mixing, but have excellent long-term durability (even for foil-back crystals). Great for production craftspeople!
Specialty & craft glues are each designed for specific applications. Some are flexible, and many will bond plastics, porous materials (wood, fabric, etc.), or metal-to-metal bonds.
Resins and sealants can sometimes also be used as adhesives.
Test a small sample and allow it to cure thoroughly before proceeding.
When possible, use a file to roughen smooth surfaces. This gives a stronger grip.
Clean both surfaces before applying adhesive (we recommend isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab).
Work in a well-ventilated, dry, and dust-free environment.
Extreme temperatures might affect drying time.
Store all adhesives in a cool place.
MSDS (Material Safety and Data Sheets) are available upon request.
Glues and Cold Temperatures
Avoid shipping glues during winter months, since many will lose effectiveness once frozen. This is especially true of super glues.
Store finished creations in a location that maintains temperatures above freezing.
Cyanoacrylate (super glue) bonds can be weakened -- allowing intentional or accidental disassembly -- by placing a glued object in a household freezer for several hours. (Epoxy glues also become brittle in low temperatures, but most will not snap apart as super glues do).
