We just got a great cyber Monday deal on a Brother laser printer, it's sole task was to print on PnP. For some reason the two are not working well together. Never an issue with an ancient HP, but the IT department took it away (cause it was old, but it still worked!). Love the Brother for regular use, sharp and crisp, but the PnP prints as though the toner is not solid on the page. Been trying different things for a few days, all failed to etch properly. I am giving the product five stars because I know it works great, I have used it for years, but be warned about selecting your printer. [ R&T Reply: Hi, thanks for the helpful review! Is the new printer a color printer, or b&w? If it's a color printer, see if you can choose to only print with black toner. If it's just a b&w printer, then dang, I have no good suggestions. (I too, loved my ancient HP, but my newish HP is not as wonderful.) ]

Hello, My Dell color laser printer appears to melt and then jam on the PNP paper every time. Is this transfer paper just not going to work with this printer? -- [ R & T reply: it's possible that your laser printer is hotter than most, and is just too hot for the PnP transfer paper. Hopefully that's not the case, but it does sound likely. Or, it might be simpler. Often, specialty papers can only be used in the manual tray, not the main paper tray. (You're probably already doing that, but I thought I'd mention it just in case.) And, with one of the laser printers I've used in the past, I always had to manually give heavy paper a PUSH to start it through -- it couldn't make it past the first curves without jamming at least a little bit, which would put weird scuff marks on the page, plus usually did unpleasant things to the image. Good luck!! ~Polly, Rings & Things ]

I used this PNP film and had success after lots of trouble. After some trial and error I discovered my image adhered after I quenched it in cold water before peeling off the film. Give it a try if you are having trouble.

I have tried everything but still no luck. I think it has to do with the type of printer and type of toner. I know your printer is 10 years old but please tell me the kind of printer it is the model number and the type of toner that is in it. Thank you so much --- [ R&T Reply: We had an HP4500 and the default HP toner, and had decent results with ours, especially considering that we were using a 30-year-old iron with the usual "materials" dial on it -- so we were only guessing at the actual temperature we were using. One thing we did have to make sure we did, was pick "black only" when printing -- sometimes a color printer will assume you want to print black made up of its preferred percentages of CMYK]

Originally I was going the route of many DIY'ers who print projects on glossy paper, then transfer them--using heat--onto metal for etching. I discovered my printer doesn't like glossy stock, so I was at a loss. This PNP paper saved me! I first tried 20 or so passes through a 300-degree laminator to transfer the image. No go. But my old B&D Stowaway iron at its highest setting (Cotton; the dial doesn't have temp indicators) transferred the image perfectly. Be patient: my transfer took over five minutes and still needed a bit of Sharpie correction. I probably could've had better results had I kept going longer with the iron. I'm sure I'll get better with practice. My design was rather complex, but came out beautifully on a sheet of copper. Not sure why others might be having issues with Brother printers; mine's a little Brother HL-L2350DW, brand new, and did the job.

I make my own stamping tool for my silver jewelry that is made from silver clay and I love using PNP paper for my process. I have tried another method and it was just a mess. I use precut 1 1/2" copper plates. I sand with 500-600 grit sandpaper and wipe it clean with rubbing alcohol. I have the Rowenta Focus iron that does not have the auto shut off. I put the setting exactly on the cotton-right in the middle. I have a HP laser jet printer-nothing fancy. I just make sure to bump up the toner settings and I make sure to bump up the black and white settings in Photoshop when I create my images. Once I print the image on the PNP, I cut the image out and lay it over the copper plate. I put a paper towel over the top and put my iron over it for 5-10 minutes, depending on the complexity of my design. I then put the copper plate in water to quench it. I slowly peal off the PNP paper. I rarely have any issues. Sometimes I get a small portion of black area missing and that could be any number of things, not necessarily the PNP paper. I just fix those areas with black nail polish and a paint brush with trimmed bristles. Then I just etch the copper plate with Ferric Chloride. Very easy to use and I get consistent results each time.

I recently purchased some pnp paper and because I don't have a laser printer, took it to Staples. They tried a couple of times and said it was jamming so gave it back to me. I took it home and tried to use a couple of the images that actually did print on a portion of the paper. I got a couple of decent etchings but the images smeared a bit before I used the heat. The paper seemed very "dusty" and so even the slightest touch to the image would smear. Is this "dustiness" normal or is it a sign that something more than jamming went wrong with the printing process.
[R & T reply: The "dustiness" probably means that the PNP paper jammed before it made it to the heating portion of the printer (I think it's called the fuser, and has a big "HOT!" warning on it, saying not to touch it), so the laser toner didn't get melted to the paper. We have found that "alternate" papers (card stock, glossy paper, etc.) often can't go into the main tray (they won't feed properly all way through the printer), and have to go into the manual feed tray, and even then, sometimes need a little "push" to get them started. Usually they'll make it all the way through from the manual feed tray, but it sounds like the printer that Staples used, just couldn't handle this paper (transfer film) all the way the path.]

I'm looking to purchase this in bulk, but need a recommend brand of laser printer. Near 100% success rate and toner transfer? I've read about many printers not working perfectly, and since I'm buying everything together I want the best one for the job.
[R&T reply: Our workhorse of a laser printer is over 10 years old, so I don't have much advice on newer laser printers. However, I think your best best is to simply research good quality laser printers -- look for reviews that say it prints nice and clean (no icky residue on the page), and is good at printing on alternate/specialty papers without jamming. The other part is - just make sure it is REALLY a laser (dry toner based) printer, not a laserjet.]

I recently purchase 20 sheets of PnP paper from Rings and Things for a Metal Arts class and every attempt to achieve a transfer to copper has failed. A Laser printer was used to transfer the images, the copper was prepped as instructed and heat was applied from between 275 and 350 degrees. After seven attempts to make a transfer the teacher suggested trying her batch of PnP paper (purchased from ******). Using the same Laser Printer and prep a perfect transfer was achieved 3 times. The only variable was the paper. Rings and Things was the 'on sale' PnP paper you sold recently old stock. Please advise. [R&T Reply: Hi D., We go through our stock pretty quickly, so we don't think it was old, but we will contact the manufacturer and find out if there have been any problems recently. Sometimes it's a little tricky to use, but your experience sounds like you tested the variables well, and it came down to the 2 batches of paper.

I read that some uses PNP Paper to create a stencil for glass etching. Would you happen to know if it works? Also if I were to print my image with a laser printer, what paper type should I select? Lastly, do you ship to HKG? [R&T Reply: The information from the manufacturer doesn't mention glass, but we found a tutorial on glass etching with PNP paper, so we think it works. You use the PnP transfer film instead of regular paper. http://content.photojojo.com/diy/etch-photos-on-glass/ And yes, we ship to HKG!]

The best, easiest, quickest and fastest transfer Medium I have ever used and it rarely fails and when it does it's always the operator.

Can this paper be used for glass or does it only work on metal? -- [R & T Reply: Hi Brittany, The information from the manufacturer doesn't mention glass, but I found a tutorial on glass etching with PNP paper, so I think it does. http://content.photojojo.com/diy/etch-photos-on-glass/  Please let us know if you try it out.  ~  Rita]

i am from country india . i need to purchase press n peel film for my personel pcb making requirement. pls give me kind advice about how i could buy this item
Reply from Rings & Things: Hi Pradeep, Thank you for asking. We are happy to ship to you anywhere in the world! Simply click "Add" to add this item to your cart, and then click the red shopping cart icon (in the upper right corner of your screen or device) to begin the checkout process. You will have the opportunity to review shipping methods and prices before entering any payment information. We accept PayPal and most major credit cards through our secure website.

my understanding is that printer must use powdered toner not an ink, is that correct?
Rings & Things Reply: Yes Deb, you are absolutely correct. It only works with the laser printers that use black toner (powder), not liquid inks. Kinkos and other local printer/copier companies often have a toner laser printer that you can run a few copies on for a small fee.

Fabulous printout from the PNP film. I used it on copper for etching. Etching came out very nice. I would highly recommend this product. Rings & Things sells individual sheets which is nice and fast delivery service too!

It is SO difficult to find this blue transfer paper, much less to find it sold by individual sheets, so imagine my joy when I came across it here. I swear by this product and will by it from Rings N' Things from now on :)