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Author Topic: Clear plastic jewelry with inclusions  (Read 988 times)
lcg02e
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« on: August 02, 2003, 05:07:42 pm »

Thanks much for the info.  I suspected the situation on the plastic; couldn't think what else it may be, but you never know what they'll come up with next.  I do have a respirator and a place to work with chemicals, so no problem there...

Now, what about settings? I am comfortable with chemicals, but have no experience with metals or jewelry, including small-scale soldering. Do have an oxyacetylene rig, but have never used it for anything in precious metal or intricate, and don't have the time for the learning curve right now. I'd love to just buy sterling settings for this plastic work, but from where? From who? Anybody got any ideas? Or want to make some money off me?

Drop an email with "clear plastic settings" in the subject line if you have what I need to do a bracelet and necklace with this stuff to lcg02e@garnet.acns.fsu.edu and let's talk.

Thanks,
Lori

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Lori
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« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2003, 02:17:16 pm »

Clear plastic jewelry with inclusions

We have all seen jewelry with inclusions in clear plastic – sometimes its flowers, paper images, small watch gears, scorpians, bugs or collages of parts, beads and images.  These are made with clear casting resin.  This usually comes as a 2-part material, the resin and the catalyst.  You mix up the resin with the appropriate amount of catalyst and pour it over you objects and let it set. Clear casting resin is much more refined then epoxies or ‘fiberglass’ resin [for boat and car building], it stays clear and will not yellow except in a very long time.

There are certain molds you can use to work with the casting resin. These will not stick to the resin and can be used to shape and hold the resin as you pour it. Or you can cast into little metal findings, bottle caps, what have you. You can also get dyes and colorants to add to the resin for various effects and changes. There are lots of aspects to experiment with here, and some great effects can be achieved.

Sounds great doesn’t it? Now for the down side.
Most of these materials are fairly toxic. The resin is catalyzed by methylethylketone. MEK a fairly volitile and nasty chemical. The clean up solvents are acetone and lacquer thinner, fairly toxic as well. You will need to have good ventilation in the room and a chemical cartridge respirator with organic vapour cartridges or gas mask with organic vapour canister.  As with all of these sorts of materials, read the Material Safety Data Sheet [MSDS] – whoever sells you the materials is required by law to provide the MSDS on request.

Have fun out there, and play safe.

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« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2003, 10:19:37 am »

The oxy-acetylene will probably be too hot for the sterling.  I use an acetylene torch that uses a non-pressured air feed to mix with - these are not too expensive and if you have the acetylene tank already you just need a splitter and a couple of shut off valves.
There is a certain amount of sterling findings in our catalog - you have to dig abit as they are mixed through out the catalog.
Another possibility is the new metal clays.  We carry Art Clay Silver.  This a a kiln or torch firing clay that fires out to 99.9% fine silver - very cool. It might cover all your bases and is easier to use then learning how to do the fine silver soldering.
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Metalman
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