Molds, methods and art clay

[Metalman]

In theory, plaster slip molds like those used in ceramic work ought to work with Art Clay.  Having observed the behavior of the clay for a while now, I suspect that this would work well as a method.  There are a couple of details to work out.  One is that most hollow work in Art Clay is done over armatures so if you are generating a hollow object by slip casting you may have collapsing problems when you fire it.  The other detail is strictly cost. To come up with enough Art Clay to use for a slip cast method would require a fair amount of of thinned down clay to fill the mold - high capital outlay for the home crafter.
Keep us posted on your results if you pursue this methodology further.

[Metalfairy]

I was just asked if plaster mold, used in pottery work, could be used with Art Clay Silver?  

[Metalman]

Once fired, I have had no problem with using polymer clay for press molds.  I had not heard about the damage from polymer clay on Art Clay  but can see a potential when the poly clay is unfired.  I will investigate and let us all know.

[Metalfairy]

I've used polymer baked clay mold, with no damage to my ACS.

[Reverie]

I have read that polymer clay can damage ACS prior to firing.  Is this true once the polymer has been baked?  If so, does anyone have any suggestions for a coating to use inside the mold so that it doesn't contaminate?

[Metalman]

I think it would be very possible to slip cast ACS but I have not done it. A proper plaster mold should pull the moisture just as in regular clay and I would expect the Art Clay to separate well also.  The $$ expense is the limiting factor here.
Unfortunately, this is in the experimental range.
Let us know if you do it and how it goes.

[Silver Clay Student]

Is it possible to slip cast ACS and/or PCM? I have experience with conventional ceramics, and acess to a kiln/plaster, etc. so I'm ok on that side of things. However, I'm a student, and thus on a limited budget, so I'd prefer not to waste a lot of money on this (expensive) line of materials. Any help would be appreciated !

[Silver Clay Student]

Well, I'll be sure to appraise you of what happens; I've managed to get it as an early xmas gift ;) definitely will demand some time tho, gotsa make it look nice

[Metalman]

Tip for 3/19/2003 [this is copy from the TIPS thread]
I have had an inquiry about molds for Art Clay. I have done a variety of things along this line.  Sculpey or any polymer clay is great for snatching textures and/or relief molds from all kinds of things.  This makes a good one part mold of relief type textures or details. We have used plastic toys, dinosaur skins, door knobs - the sky appears to be the limit.  A caution here - fine details that are deep are hard to get out of the mold.  A thin film of olive oil may help release the Art Clay, just the lightest wipe of oil will do.
I have also used the 2-part silicone putty [product #87-041 in the Rings and Things catalog] and have gotten fantastic detail results.  This is a very easy and fast product to use, no muss and low on the measuring fuss. Long, thin clay details are hard to get out of one piece molds - the solution here may be use two part molds.
This is a way to make up repeats, and work them together while the clay is still moist.
Member Quicksilver asks:
Hi Metalman,  Out of the sculpey,polymer clay and the putty which do you prefer the most [for making molds] ( if any ).
Thanks, Quiksilver

And you thought you would get a straight answer out of me.
The answer is YES.  Okay, if I have extra, left over or colors I don't like of polymer clay, I use that for general molds, especially textures.  If I need to buy some more, I buy the beige Super Sculpey [R&T cat #85-516 - Discontinued 2007] because it is the most material for the least $$.
I use the Silicone putty for extra fine detail molds, there are those things that just don't come through well when you press the polyclay/sculpey on to them.
So, it depends on the usage.  Also if the mold will have deep recesses, you may need to experiment with the different materials to work out what gives you the best results.
There are a number of other molding materials which can be used, depending on the need/usage, the durability and the number of repeats you want to get out of a mold before it wears out.  These tend to run up in cost.

[Metalman]

6/6/03 [copy from Tips thread]
 Here is a quick and dirty [actually clean] tip.  A fast, repeatable mold, with easy release - Use a bar of soap, you know that infinitely carvable one and carve a low relief mold in it. Then press the ACS into it, make one or 2 dozen.  If you want to save your new mold, use a ziplock bag so it doesn't dry out on you. Want to do quick variations or don't like your first effort - just rework it or shave it off and start over.

[etrnly]

Another type of mold a person can use, or those which I use alot are Rubber Stamps.  The types, textures, letters ect. are vast.. so many choices.  While this does not solve the more dimensional issues, it most certainly is great for flat items.

I also brush them with corn starch, just to make it an easy seperation when removing the stamp.

P.S. Hi All, I'm brand new to this board, and I LOVE silver clay so much I'm wanting to learn to silver smith.  My only problem is there is NO MASTER instructor on the west side of the mountains in Washington.
Hopefully I'll be able to take a few classes this summer, when the snow melts from the pass.

[Polly]

Hi etrnly,

How does April sound?
We might not  be having many classes this summer, but we do have a full-day workshop April 7:
http://www.rings-things.com/classes/classes_acs_basic.htm
Kurt tailors each class to his students so even though this is a beginner class, I bet you could pick up a lot of intermediate information.

Or if that doesn't sound right, or the date doesn't work, give Kurt (aka Metalman) a call at 1 (800) 366-2156, ext. 120, and see if there is a good Saturday during the good-pass-weather season, for an intermediate/advanced class.

(edited once I noticed that I replied almost 3 months after your original post ... eep.  But the passes are pretty much clear now!)