practice clay with similar texture?

[elven]

Hello!

I did my first class in silver clay and was frustrated with how quickly it dried out and started cracking & crumbling, and i've been working on ways to produce objects with minimal hands on the clay like carving my own moulds from lino and wax. Anyway, before i let loose on the packets i just bought, i wondered if there's another clay I could practise on that's a similar texture?

I've got normal kids grey clay but it's very sort of fibrous,  and not fine enough
Polymer clay is too rubbery
Green Stuff (used by the warhammer miniature making people) is also too plasticky - although i think it may be a great medium for carving moulds from!
Cold porcelain is also too rubbery

I'm now thinking about fondant/sugar paste type stuff... any ideas?

[Luann Udell]

I felt the same way about the clay drying out.  But my instructor just kept repeating that it's all about keeping the clay moist.

I think practicing with material that's 'like' but still not the real thing won't solve the issue. 

There's a learning curve to most new techniques and materials, and I think if you want to master silver clay, you just have to keep practicing. 

Don't give up!   

[Metalman]

Hmmmm - drying out alot?
Here in Spokane and in Utah where I took my original trainings are some of the lowest humidities in the country - where are you located?
In mid summer with 110 F in the shade and the air conditioner on - I sometimes run a humidifier in the studio to balance things.
I also use one of those 3 oz little travel spray bottles [you can find them in the travel cosmetics counter at the pharmacy] That way I can lightly moisten the clay  or the work bench area as I go.   The olive oil thing [very lightly on your hands and finger tips] helps a lot as well.  Sometimes I make a blanket out of plastic wrap and a damp cloth - I lay this over my work when ever I am not directly working.  Your instructor should have covered this - have you taken an introductory class?   as Luann mentioned - learning to manage the moisturizing of the clay is a big part of working with it.
As to an practice clay - when I teach metal clay workshops with Fourth Graders -I use this white , self drying clay you can get at the craft store - I can't remember the name but I do know it comes from Germany - it works okay but is not a perfect match to ACS
Hope this helps - If you are near Spokane, WA  - there are some workshops coming up.
Kurt

[elven]

Thanks guys. I suppose I need to be brave and just go for it with the real thing. There's so much pressure when you're working with such tiny amounts and it's so expensive

I'm not sure how Ireland compares to Utah in terms of humidity! I know when I took the class we were in a pottery studio on a very warm sunny day with the doors open, maybe that was extra dry conditions.

The instructor just warned us it would dry out quickly and we had to work fast, but we weren't using acrylic blocks for making snakes or even the whole washing, moisturising hands and using balm or oil thing wasn't covered, i read about that when i got home afterwards. Maybe now I know that, I might fare a little better.

Here's what I made in the class anyway, it's not great at all but i suppose it'll always be special to me for being my first piece...



And here's the lino cuts i've been working on and some test clay pieces (It's DAS clay, I think maybe that's the german kind you were talking about Kurt?)

[Metalman]

HEY _ this is good looking stuff.
Testing your lino cuts is a good idea and now that you mention it - you are right it is DAS
The cuts you show look good - make sure the thinnest areas are roughly .5mm thick. As you work along and get better - I find myself looking for more detail. Also - once you have pressed into a mold and dried your piece - you can carve directly into the Art Clay before you fire - great way to fine detail and individualize each piece

Don't forget to enter the RINGS & Things contest next winter.