Where did all the sterling silver coil ends go???

[Luann Udell]

A couple years ago, I bought something similar to this product http://shop.rings-things.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=15449&idcategory=1076 to finish off thick leather cords for men's jewelry, only I bought them in sterling silver.  I think they're called "coil ends".

Okay, I bought them from another company because R&T didn't carry them in sterling.   

Now I'm trying to find them again.  The company I bought them from has discontinued them in the 3.6mm to 4mm interior diameter size, and NOBODY ELSE carries them, either--Halstead, CGM, Ritter, Rio Grande or R&T. 

So....what happened to this product?  What would it cost to special order them through R&T?

And if the cost is prohibitive (they were a nice, less expensive alternative to cast sterling silver leather cord ends, WHEN I could find them), what would make a good replacement here at R&T if I want a) something with an oxidized sterling look and b) something that won't trigger nickel allergies?  I'm hesitant to use silver-plated items, because my experience has been they are very difficult to oxidize, even when washed first.

Thanks!!!

[Russ Nobbs]

We'll look into it.
In the mean time, here's another tool to consider. <grin>
With a "Jump Ringer" from Ray Grossman, or Dave Arens Koil Kutter or Pepe Tool's Jump Ring Maker you could wind  your own coil ends. You'd need to clip off how many coils you want per end, clean the ends, maybe bend one or 2 links out for the clasp side.

I think Dave sells his Koil Kutter direct/ It works with Dremel or Proxon. We can order either of the other 2 models. Rio, TBS, IJS and others carry them, too.

[Russ Nobbs]

Hi Luann,
We can special order these in sterling and with only 50 piece minimum. I'll get an e-mail to you with details.

[Luann Udell]

GREAT!!!  Can't wait.   

I thought about making my own, but worried about the sterling wire hardness.  How would you harden the coil??  I suppose a tumbler with steel shot.....?

[Russ Nobbs]

Now that we can supply them I'm not gonna tell you how to harden them, or anything more about making your own, so there!   

Actually winding them work hardens them and you start with hard or 1/2 hard wire. They will still be softer than steel ones.

[Luann Udell]

Hmmmm, I deduce an uncharacteristic self-interest at play here......   

Okay, I have a shopping cart full of other goodies--the saw frame, blades, what about that new metal puncher the Euro power punch? and will wait to hit the "Pay" button til I hear from your people.   

[Polly]

The Euro Power Punch  ROCKS.    I really want one!  Read its (enclosed) directions carefully (of course). And, speaking from personal experience: if you drop all the parts, find good lighting to see the tiny numbers on the sides to put them back into the case in order. Because if you use a 1/8" punch with a a 3/32" die it doesn't work very well.... But when you use the right parts, in the right places, this thing punches perfect holes through a variety of metals, with ease. The little circles that drop out after punching a hole have a large mark in the middle, but might be useable for fun scrap projects at some point, too.

For the special order - we don't yet have a way to do special orders through the online store. So that would need to be handled separately either over the phone @ 1-800-366-2156, or via email with orders@ ... (rings-things.com).

[Luann Udell]

Thanks for the great review on the Euro PowerPunch, Polly!  I ordered one.   
Now.....why in heaven don't you have one yet??

[Polly]

Well... so far I haven't needed to punch the bigger holes, so my little 2-hole Euro punch is working pretty well for me. Technically, it's working well again, now that I replaced the punch on one end after trying to cut through a pretty -- but apparently steel! -- washer I found on the street. fyi, replacement parts if anyone else does something equally foolish are only about $5.

And also, I cheat.    For now, I can borrow the big Euro Power Punch that we issued for our in-house Example/Inspiration Jewelry Team to use.  It's tough enough that I'm unlikely to damage it.  And ... summer and my yard calleth, so unless I make a bench outside ... hmmm ... I probably won't be making as much jewelry until this Fall.

[Luann Udell]

Uh oh....I think I ordered the wrong one!  I want to make LITTLE holes in metal.....   

[Russ Nobbs]

Do we take returns on tools?


<just kidding>

[Luann Udell]

LOL, yes, you do! Thank goodness!    And in the future, I promise to take the time to get to the third sentence in the description.  

Now, the next two questions are....

Of the two smaller diameter Euro Power Punchers, (1.25mm and 1.8mm) and/or the the two-hole punch Polly's talking about (1.6mm and 2.3mm), which do you use the most?  

If you only use wire, then the smallest single hole size http://shop.rings-things.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=20484&idcategory=0 would work for wire sizes up to 18 gauge...?  Polly, do you use the larger hole size for things like....leather cord?

And now that I'm thinking of it.....Are you wearing kitty ears in your profile pic??? (I always thought it was a bow!)

[Russ Nobbs]

I'm going to let Polly answer your questions. I prefer a drill bit in my Fordom.

[Polly]

For making wire rivets, I prefer the wire to fit very snugly, and some of these fit a little looser than I prefer (but much tighter than some other people or companies recommend!).

The 1.25mm hole punch is good for 16g (1.3mm) wire, and for Vintaj nail-head rivets.
The 1.8mm hole punch, plus a bit of adjustment to the hole from a manual bead reamer, works with a 12g (2.1mm) wire rivet, or a 2x3mm seamless crimp tube used as a tube rivet (if the pieces you're joining together are thin enough). Our 2x3mm sterling crimp tube doesn't say it is seamless, but it does rivet nicely.

With the 2-hole punch, the 1/16" hole (1.59mm) works well with 14g (1.63mm) wire. The 3/32" hole (2.3mm) seems a tiny bit loose on the 3/32" tubing I have, but not too bad.  And, you can often get away with a little "tap tap tap" with a texturing or ballpein hammer around the hole, to shrink the hole slightly for an improved rivet fit.

I find that I get a cleaner-looking rivet (same size on both front and back of my finished piece) when my wire just barely fits into the hole.  Otherwise when I begin to rivet, my sheet falls down and the 2nd side has a smaller rivet than the side I started on.  If you have a nail-head rivet like Vintaj's, or you pre-form one end (please don't ask me how), then you can get away with a larger hole or smaller wire.


I believe we will be adding some 1/8" basemetal tubing soon, which is about the same size as our sterling watch band tubing. These both should work nicely with the 1/8" hole punch (in the big EuroPower Punch that you just bought), for making nice tube rivets.  I THINK that 14g wire fits nicely inside the tubing, which means you could make your own hinges, too!  I plan on experimenting with this as soon as I get a sample. 
The only non-fun part about tube rivets, is slicing the tubing with a jeweler's saw in 1) a straight line and 2) without losing your slice into a crack on the floor. But, I'm getting better at both those aspects.

Hmmm, I should measure the holes in the item that I "lashed" together with 26g or 28g wire.

[Polly]

Yes, kitty ears, you betcha!    What? The arrival of spring means Halloween season is over?  Noooooooooooo!