FIRING - a full answer + questions

Is there some particular SURFACE I should fire the Art Clay on?  I usually use some sort of kiln wash on the shelves...but that is for ceramic firings.  Please advise.

[Metalman]

You didn't say whether you were kiln firing or torch firing.
There are various blocks for torch firing  [R&T # 69-182, pg A31 in the spring supplement]
For the kiln there is fiber blanket, and fiber board [R&T 69-183  and 69-181].  I would test the ACS on a kiln wash shelf in the kiln but would be concerned about the kiln wash getting into the metal clay.
Torch firing on a kiln shelf will not work.

[sasha06]

Is it possible to fire a piece that is not completely flat on a speedfire 'kiln'?  Would the piece collapse?

[Metalman]

You should be able to fire  it okay. I would use some of the fiber kiln blanket to 'nestle' it into so that it doesn't get distorted. That would be R&T#69-181.
It tears easily and you could take a small amount and form a support for your piece.  Do this in a ventilated area and don't breathe the dust generated when you tear the blanket.

[sasha06]

Would it be possible to find a fiber blanket at a local ceramics supply store?

[Metalman]

Yes, very possibly.  This is much the same material that many raku kilns are made of these days. I would expect a professional ceramics dealer to carry these products [or be able to order them] as well as very possibly have some small scraps that will suffice for your purposes.

[Selma]

Hello Kurt & eveyone,
I've taken several metal clay classes where I used a torch and the instructor took the pieces away to fire in a kiln. Now I want to continue on my own and I just bought a Paragon SC2. Wow. I'm very happy about it.  But aside from reading everything I can find (including Paragon info, info on this site, and info elsewhere on the internet including youtube videos), I don't know how to use it hands on --- yet.  For instance, I've never seen anybody open the door and load the kiln, program it, and then finish it (how?) and take pieces out. I know I sound ignorant and naive, but this procedure isn't given anywhere and I'm sure there are better and not so good ways to do the steps.  Backing up, I don't really know the best way to support the kiln (to place it somewhere in my small house) for firing, or if I need a unique electric circuit for it.
I think the kiln came with one shelf, and I'll have to buy more. What other materials might I need for firing?
Would you mind sharing some of this information, or pointing me to where it might be?
By the way, the classes I took have all been with PMC, but now I've begun to buy Art Clay. I have a question about the ultimate difference between the standard, the low-fire, and slow dry low fire---will the fired piece in each type be the same?
Thank you very much.

[RitaD]

Hi Selma,

I think you and I are in the same boat.  I also just bought the SC2 (Rings & Things has just become a distributor for Paragon Kilns.)  I read up enough to know that it does need a dedicated circuit, "breaker size 15".  I've read that it is best to have on a steel cart, and should have a foot clearance from walls when being fired.  http://paragonweb.com/SC2_with_Bead_Door_and_Window.cfm has some videos that might get you further down the road.  I'll be interested to hear what you learn, and how your experience turns out. 

I expect "Metalman" will chime in soon, but I thought I'd get you started with the info I had.

Rita

[Metalman]

Okay - let's see:

• I have my SC2 on a 2" thick old cutting board on my heavy old [but wood] workbench - almost 10 years now - no problems.
• A metal cart is nice [if you have one] an old steel baking pan that is big enough will suffice.
• Rita has the circuit detail there although I just made sure I had a 20 amp breaker on a circuit and that I didn't have other heat generating appliances on [ like don't plug you kiln into the same plug as your dryer and then try to dry clothes and fire at the same time
• You get all your pieces ready, make sure you know the firing schedule for the type of metal clay you are using, program the kiln [it may take a few run throughs to get the directions down but you'll get it
• There is a little handle on the front = pull on it - should open with a small yank
• I bought some of those little feet things they use in ceramics, a ceramic supply house should have them - sometimes referred to as 'frogs' I stack my shelves on those so I can put 2 or 3 shelves in at once.
• You may want to fire cork firings outside - or make sure of your ventilation [DO NOT OPEN THE KILN DURING A Cork firing]
• I leave my pieces in the kiln until it gets back down to room temp. One good way is to fire your kiln about an hour or 2 before you go to sleep. You fire it, turn it off at the end and leave the studio space for the evening so it will be ready in the morning [this way you are not tempted to mess with them hot]
• If you are in a hurry, you can pull piece out hot with a tongs - but only if they are all metal - if you have glass, stone or ceramic parts/inclusions you MUST NOT open the kiln until it is back to room temp [everything will crack - been there did that!!]
• CLAY differences= All of the material looks the same after you fire it. You can combine all of the materials and fire it but you need to fire a the highest temperature for your materials - so, if you take some low fire clay and start building and need to use some of the regular clay - then you have to fire the whole thing at the firing temps for the regular clay [every packet of ACS has instructions with the firing needs of that type of clay in the package]

HOPE I got 'em all - keep us posted on your new kiln.

[Luann Udell]

Metalman, this is a nice series of Q&A--good work!!

[daverobertson]

@Luann Udell - Second that! Hats off to Kurt.