steel contaminated art clay

Hello all I hope to get some answers here.

In my last topic on “how to use oil-paste” I was working on the “same” bangle. I didn’t solve that problem, cut my losses and started a new. Using what I learned from this I took the wet clay out of my flat mold (cuttle bone) and formed it around my steel bangle mandrel (slow dry, low fire clay was used). When I took it off I seen the mandrel had deposited rust on the inside off the bangle and had “eaten” in to my mandrel deep enough for me to be able to feel the damage. After letting the clay dry out I cleaned the inside of the bangle by wetting it again and scraping the rust off, and then burned it off.
When trying the bangle on she broke right in the middle. It was clear to see that the rust had gotten much deeper in to the silver than I initially thought. When you look at a cross section of the bangle you can see it as a D shape, the flat side being the inside of the bangle and the rust had formed a layer about a millimeter under the outside surface, the round side of the D. I tried fixing the two halves with oil paste but this alone proved not strong enough, she broke again. I’m planning on making a sterling inner sleeve to reinforce the whole thing. Normally I would “sweat” solder that on the inside, give the whole thing “a backbone support” so to say”. But I can’t pickle it after soldering due to the contamination in the silver (I’ve had it in pickle before trying to wash the rust out. All I done is ruin my pickle and made the thing go a horrible gray – I did manage to clean that off but I’m afraid that the solder will not bind because of this corrosion. Nor do I seem to get the two halves to join strong enough.
Does anybody have an Idea of what to do?

I do have another question. My bottle of oil tipped over is it possible to get just the diluting oil? or is there a substitute oil i can use to dilute the paste? Thank you all for thinking with me

MoniqueMy Webpage Monique Unique