What part of our site were you reading? Give us an idea of what kind of birthstone crystal dangle you are trying to make. An earring or pendant? Using what kind and size of crystal?
Personally, I like having a few different lengths of dangles. When using multiple beads I usually prefer a kind of "triangular" design - that is, larger beads at the bottom. One dangle might simply be 5mm bead at the top, with a 6mm bead at the bottom. The next, depending on the surrounding charms and space I want to fill, might be simply an 8mm bead. Or an 8mm bead with a coordinating seed bead "anchor" at the bottom, or a few stacked above to make the dangle longer without more mass at the top.
When using spacers or anchors, I like Japanese seed beads. Their size and shape are quite regular, and they come in just about any color you might need.
When you *don't* want color, then flat metal "heishi" beads, or 2mm or 3mm round metal beads can be great.
For some ideas of dangles we've made, take a look at the glass "charm" bracelet on the bottom of our catalog's page 60:http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/060.htm.
For something quite a bit simpler, take a look at the 12 Days of Christmas necklace, page 58:http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/058.htm.
Experiment a bit, and see what combinations you like on your bracelets.
Even if you use Sterling or GF for the real bracelets that you're selling, you can experiment using basemetal head pins, then cut up the head pins when you're done experimenting and make your real designs with your genuine material findings.
--Polly
Inexpensive items don't usually justify the (time) expense of soldering. The more valuable the item being dangled, the more you should make it secure by using split rings, or soldering your jump rings, or by doing a little wire wrapped attachment.