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Author Topic: solder jump rings  (Read 7468 times)
theretiredone
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« on: November 27, 2006, 10:52:46 am »

I want to use base metal silver plate jump rings.
Do I use a soldering iron or torch?
Can I use solder paste?
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Metalman
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« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2006, 01:54:09 pm »

If you use a torch, it will work but it will most likely burn off the plating leaving the  bametal showing.
If you use what is called 'soft ' solder you can use a soldering iron. The best look to match your silver plate would be the Stay Bright solder [R&T cat#69-092].
It is 95% tin and the balance is silver. Works well.
You can find soft and hard solder materials in paste form. If lead content is a concern, be careful which alloy of paste solder you buy.
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dancingturtle
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« Reply #2 on: November 05, 2007, 09:27:43 am »

I've read all the questions/answers about soldering jump rings...

I'm interested in using the solder-filled jump rings to possibly make this process a bit simpler.  Is that the case or just a misconception by me?  I know how to solder, but have never soldered jewelry before so I am a bit nervous about it.  I will be soldering sterling silver jump rings to hold charms on bracelets.
THank you!
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Polly
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« Reply #3 on: November 05, 2007, 05:00:33 pm »

Hi dancingturtle,

I haven't used the solder-filled jump rings, so can't address that question.

If you already know how to solder, then jump rings really aren't too bad. Just use a small amount of flux, and position the parts you don't want soldered together at the far side of the jump ring, so that your solder doesn't flow all the way over to them, fusing the jump ring, charm and chain into one glob.

My main piece of advice, is:  be sure to practice with a few items that aren't as important as the finished jewelry that you plan on selling.  Pull some left-over chain hunks out of your  your silver scrap bin, or sacrifice some chain that isn't your favorite, and use a few extra jump rings as charm placeholders.  

Jump rings are small, so are pretty easy to heat up enough to get the solder to flow enough to seal that little gap.  

--Polly
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Polly Nobbs-LaRue
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« Reply #4 on: November 26, 2007, 01:25:28 am »

Just to be clear for any lurkers, the solder filled jump rings are intended for use with a torch or possibly with a laser. They will not work with any low temperature method like the soldering iron Kurt mentioned.
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Russ Nobbs
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« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2007, 09:45:03 am »

I thought I would repost this here for help and assistance

The question then arises as to the character and quality of your work.  If you are making costume grade jewelry for occasional wear - you may do fine with some method of gluing or 'soft' soldering.
If you are heading toward the "Fine Jewelry" end of the scale, you may want to investigate 'hard' soldering. This will involve you more in the metalsmithing and jewelrysmithing aspects of our craft.
I would recommend the Tim McCreight book The Complete Metalsmith for your growing studio either way.  The R&T # is 62-010.
Regarding skin contact - the patinas and the 'Soft' solders both have the potential to be skin irritants.  It also depends on the contact.  A ring can cause problems because of the continuous contact, a pendant on a sterling chain is much less of a problem.
I would bet that the solder you mention was an electrical solder which would have a rosin core to flux it - this would give the effect that you describe.
Staybrite comes with a flux although it is much the same as what you are using with your stained glass.
Send us your further questions as they arise.
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CindyS
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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2011, 01:56:13 pm »

I didn't know about solder filled jump rings...  You obviously still have to use flux to solder them, right?  Thanks for any replies!
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Metalman
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« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2011, 03:25:06 pm »

Yes - you would use flux. The solder in these is 'silver or hard' solder. So you will need a torch and will be pickling your work when you finish. You will probably want a fine tip small torch to do jump-rings for charms.
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Metalman
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