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Author Topic: Broken China Jewelry  (Read 2038 times)
David Robertson
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« on: August 01, 2002, 09:47:50 am »

Hi, Saundra,

This is a neat craft!  I see some great examples at this website, but haven't yet found instructions on how it's made.  It wouldn't hurt any to contact those folks to see if they can point you in the right direction.

Let us know what you find.  I think a lot of us will be interested in this...

Take care,

-- Dave

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Dave Robertson
Saundra
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« Reply #1 on: August 09, 2002, 07:53:38 pm »

Thanks for the info. The site you reccommended is for retailing, they are not interested in giving information out on how to make the jewelry. I am practicing with the solder, and I have found out a few more tidbits, #1 being using tin/silver solder instead of tin/lead, but again, I cannot find a source for this. I did find a book on soldering techniques and how to do the beads, that REALLY is taking PRACTICE!!!!  I'll keep everyone posted on any new info I gather. Still looking for instructions if anyone can help.   THANKS!!!
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sld9er
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« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2002, 08:01:00 pm »

I have just begun making broken china jewelry. I purchased the wet saw and
>related tools, including a soldering gun. I would like to know what
>supplies you carry for this craft that I need. I am learning by trial and
>error as I cannot find any instructions for this craft. I know I need some
>sort of copper foil or foiling glue around the china to allow the solder
>to adhere.(?) I need silver/tin solder, flux, tiny silver beads for
>embellishing. I have the copper foil but really need the silver solder
>information.
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DangerousCurvesCJD
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« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2002, 10:48:31 am »

What a neat idea.

I looked at the site that Dave posted, and IMHO the examples look like they have tiny bits of solder that are used to create the beads on the pieces, not individual silver beads that at soldered on to the piece.

That is something that could be done easily enough with practice.

You may want to look into stained glass supplies for the copper tining and soldering supplies.

I've tried my hand at stain glass and this looks a bit easier cause you are not trying to match shapes to form a design.

Good luck,
Stephanie

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Dangerous Curves
Custom Jewelry Design
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Polly
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« Reply #4 on: August 15, 2002, 10:54:31 am »

From the tiny bit of soldering I've done, and from what I've read and heard... yes, PRACTICE is the key to making those little beads.

You may find a good related how-to in a back issue of Lapidary Journal ... they've had a really good how-to section in the center of their magazine for a few years now.  A variety of metalsmithing technique ideas (plus beading, wire-working, and just about every other form of jewelry that involves metal or beads).

www.lapidaryjournal.com ... I think they may list the articles in back issues, to help you decide if you want to order one.  Or you can e-mail and ask.  Some libraries may also have them (I'm not sure).

--Polly

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Polly Nobbs-LaRue
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sueb22
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« Reply #5 on: February 17, 2005, 09:21:24 am »

Hi,

I've done this type of jewelry, and everything you need can be found at a stained glass retailer.  You need copper foil, solder ( use lead free for jewelry), flux, flux brush, soldering iron etc.  A great tool to have is a do-hicky that you plug into your iron which controls the temperature of the iron.  When you lower the temperature, you can make the little solder dots and things your are referring to, and it's much easier to put on your jump rings and findings on the lower temp.  It's all the same principal as wrapping and soldering glass--just you are using china now.  Hope that helps.   '<img'>
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Metalman
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« Reply #6 on: February 17, 2005, 12:25:39 pm »

I always like it when an older thread gets 'reawakened'. Since this thread was started, there is a new product on the market. So if you are interested in going from the tin-based soft solders to fine silver, try Art Clay Overlay Paste.  This is one of the metal clay products that has been specifically designed for porcelin, glass and clay materials.  YOu can take your fired ceramic or glass and paint on layers of the Overlay Paste as well as attach findings, etc.  A little experimenting and off you go.
'What's the  hitch?' you say - well, because of the firing concerns with the ceramics, you have to fire in a kiln, preferably a time/temperature controlled one.
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Metalman
AKA: Kurt Madison
Master Instructor Emeritus - Art Clay Silver
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