Drilling shell, amber et al.

[Luann Udell]

Okay, I've been drilling up a storm since MaryM told me about the battery-operated bead reamer.  It has changed my life.  (Okay, my BEADING life.)    :'>

I've been drilling EVERYTHING--pearls, turquoise, semi-precious stone crystals, etc.--underwater, using a small cup so the drill bit and the material is completely submerged.

I know this protects the material and bit from overheating, and assume it's to keep me from inhaling particulate.

On another forum, questions about drilling amber and shell came up.  I recommended the bead reamer, but people said it was far too dangerous for amateurs like me to drill these materials, as the particles are toxic.

It seems to me that as long as you drill underwater, there are no particles, and it should be safe to use the bead reamer.  After all, it's dangerous to inhale almost ANY particulate.  Is that correct?  Or....no?  (hack, hack)

Second, if you wanted to drill a hole in something like amber nuggets or shell, how to you do that?  That is, how to you do a starter hole so the bit doesn't meander?

thanks!!!
Luann
(from all these questions, you'd never guess I'm also trying to get ready for a "rilly big shew"...)

[Metalman]

On another forum, questions about drilling amber and shell came up.  I recommended the bead reamer, but people said it was far too dangerous for amateurs like me to drill these materials, as the particles are toxic.

I think you are good here using the submerged method. The usual wash hands, etc safety protocols should de the trick
Second, if you wanted to drill a hole in something like amber nuggets or shell, how to you do that?  That is, how to you do a starter hole so the bit doesn't meander?
You should be able to find a small grinder bit with a 1 or 2mm ball end - mine is diamond loaded. I would expect you could find one that will fit into your bead reamer. I grind a small dent or divot into the shell/amber/plastic/'>
Then I can drill into this small location.

From experience if you are drilling amber (I was reaming a bead out), make sure you use some water to keep it cool.   Mine diamond drill bit (overkill for amber) got stuck...think gooed in the amber and I had to work on it to get it out).

Donna;)

[Metalman]

Water will certainly help.
Amber is old tree resin which will melt when it reaches the right temperature.
Also, much amber is imitation and made of plastic which will also melt. When yours melted, did it smell of pine trees or resin?
That would be an indicator of true amber.

[sandandfoam9]

A battery-operated bead reamer is strong enough to drill through semi-precious beads?  does that mean I don't have to go out and drop $50 on a dremel?

[Luann Udell]

It's hard to tell what it works on and what it won't.

Turquoise, "synthetic" stones (blueberry quartz, etc.), pearls, hematite, most glass, amazonite, chalcedony, aventurine, some metal beads (pot metal, silver-plated brass heishi, etc.  it works like a charm.

Then I tried to drill what I thought was amazonite or apple turquoise (pale green opaque semi-precious stone) and it won't put a dent in it.  

It's kind of amazing what this little drill will do.  But it also inspired me to buy a real jeweler's drill, too.

[marym]

Agreed on both accounts- once you start with the little reamer- you are able to do SOOO MUCH more that a bigger drill just seems worth it if you're creating a large amount of pieces for say... a rillly big shew. '>

The little battery op reamer that we sell is an awesome little tool and perfect for the hobbiest that isn't into "bulk reaming"... Luann found out for us that the motor in our reamer isn't strong enough to handle full-time use and large batches of beads- but does it up just fine for a few strands in a sitting.
Our little awesome reamer

-Mary

[Metalman]

(sandandfoam9 @ Sep. 27 2006,16:49)

QUOTE

A battery-operated bead reamer is strong enough to drill through semi-precious beads?  does that mean I don't have to go out and drop $50 on a dremel?

The little reamer is great but before you do spend the $50, check around.  The standard in the jewelers trade  is called a flexshaft. Most common brand is Foredom. generally running about $120.00 for the cheapest kit.
I have found decent import flex shafts at $59.99 so, check around before you buy.
I used to run a Rhyobi brand hand grinder like the Dremel and I got a flex shaft attachment which was great but it was not real durable. When I went to replace it, I found that the import flexshafts were significantly better priced then the dremel style with attachments.
Hope this helps

[Luann Udell]

The major problem I'm finding is the bit!  The bit that comes with the little bead reamer is perfect for resizing holes.  But it doesn't fit into a standard collet that comes with the jewelry drill I bought, and I haven't seen that kind of long, thin tapered bit anywhere else.

back to the bead reamer....!!
Luann

[Metalman]

Luann - you should be able to pick up a set [usually 4 of them] of collets, one of which should fit the tapered bits. I have generally found that the collets will fits across brands of the variuos tools, meaning that the ryobi set fits in the Dremel tool or ??. You might take your tool with you so you can check fit before purchase. A good tool company, hobby shop or hardware supply ought to have these buried in their small grinder attachment display. -Happy hunting and digging!!

[Luann Udell]

Great minds think alike!  I found a set of 4 at Aubuchon Hardware for under $7.  One of them was the right size.

I bought an electric rotary tool, sort of like the bead reamer but with a cord, from Harbor Freight. Can't for the life of me remember what I paid for it, but it came with a ton of attachments and two collets for less than $20.  In fact, I think the one I bought is now on sale for $7.49!!  How do they do that???

I'm being more careful and allowing periods of "cool down" instead of gleefully reaming handfuls of pearls at a time....

I found if I removed the little pink plastic "collar" from the bit from the R&T reamer, it fits a 3/32" collet just fine.

But I still have not found the long tapered diamond bit that came with the R&T bead reamer.  

I also find the R&T bead reamer a little easier to control--it stops when you stop pressing the "on" button, which feels a little safer.  I still highly recommend it for someone's first jewelry power tool!  '>

(I'm always looking for an excuse to use those hoppin' emoticons...)
Luann

[tchin]

sea shell etching.  i would like to do some etching on to sea shells does any one known how to?

[Metalman]

You may need to do some experimenting here. Traditionally etching is done with acids. I would expect acids to react fairly strongly with shells due to their chemical make up. You would use some type of material to resist the acid - wax, tar, liquid rubber, tape - something you can apply and then clean off well.
A second method, coming out of the glass industry would be sandblasting. There is small scale equipment you can find for sandblasting - in this case you have the same considerations with resisting the blasting. Sandblasting generates dust which you need to be careful of for health reasons.
A 3rd method would be to use tools, either hand or power, to 'carve' the shells. You can use a variety of small scale grinding bits to 'etch' designs or lettering into the shells. Again dusts are a concern - the dusts from shells can very bad. Make sure you use good ventilation and personal air masks.