Archive for the ‘New products’ Category

Quick and Easy 1-Step Looper Tutorial

Friday, May 10th, 2013

I love jewelry with lots of sparkly adornment, but making simple jewelry loops can be tricky.  Creating matching loops with the perfect shape requires skill and time.  It’s little wonder the “1-Step Looper” is so popular — this magical tool makes consistent loops in one quick and easy step.  In fact, the process is so quick, you might miss it if you blink.

Here are visual micro steps so you can see exactly how the looping pliers work.

The 1-Step Looper jewelry making pliers for making simple looped beaded dangles.

The 1-Step Looper works with head pins, eye pins and wire sized from 26 to 18 gauge, in both precious-metal and plated finishes.

 

To use the 1-Step Looper start by inserting a beaded head pin in the pliers' jaw.

Place a bead onto a head pin, slide the head pin into the pliers, and insert the excess wire through the hole in the pliers upper jaw.

 

Squeezing the handles of the 1-Step Looper jewelry pliers will cut and shape the wire end.

Gently squeeze the pliers to trim and shape the wire.

 

Continue squeezing the 1-Step Loopers' handles to form a perfect loop on your crystal charm.

Continue squeezing the pliers’ handles to form a perfect loop.

 

Use your index finger to create a slight bend in the wire between the crystal and the loop.

Before releasing the handles, gently press the wire downward to form a slight bend below the loop.

 

After forming the perfect beaded dangle with the looping pliers, release the handles to release the beaded charm.

Release the handles to release the beaded charm.

It takes just minutes to make dozens of crystal dangles with the 1-Step Looper pliers.

The 1-Step Looper is not only quick and easy to use, but it’s fun to use! It takes just minutes to make dozens of beaded charms (or links).

 

Embossed Vintaj Brass pendant  with weather copper patina finish and sparkling Swarovski crystal dangles.

With the 1-Step Looper, all your handmade jewelry can sparkle!

 

Make things!

♥ Mollie

 

 

 

I Love Copper Solder!

Wednesday, February 20th, 2013

I recently got a chance to play with copper solder, and I LOVE it! This awesome copper solder is 7% phosporous (and 93% copper), which makes it self-fluxing. It flows and melts around the same temperature as hard-grade silver solder, so you can easily solder links, small bezels, and other basic joins with a butane micro torch.

16-gauge copper wire link with 18-gauge copper solder.

16-gauge copper wire link with 18-gauge copper solder.

Why do I love copper solder?

#1:  It’s easy!

Jewelers have traditionally used silver solder to solder copper, but when using silver on copper, you have to be very careful so the silver seam doesn’t show. Since the copper solder is 93% copper (making it copper colored, even after you solder with it), I can enjoy the freedom of having my small mistakes invisible to the untrained eye. And it’s nice that the 7% phosphorous portion makes it self-fluxing, so I don’t have to use flux.

#2: It’s inexpensive.

Copper solder is about 1/10 the price of silver solder:  silver solder is around $40 per ounce, but you can get 4 entire ounces of copper solder for around $14. I can experiment and practice all day and it only costs me a few dollars worth of materials. I can make affordable copper jewelry, and/or I can decide to upgrade to sterling silver, after practicing new techniques with copper.

#3: I have everything I need.

I finally bought my own torch last year, but haven’t used it a lot yet. I got the Blazer torch kit, so I’d have everything I need — 2 types of tweezers, a solder pick, and a few different soldering surfaces.

Butane micro torch kit

Blazer micro torch kit.

How do you use copper solder?

If you already know how to solder sterling or fine silver, then you already know how to solder copper. If you have no soldering experience, or have only used “soft” solder before, then copper solder is an EXCELLENT material to begin with.

So, where do you begin?  At the very minimum, you need:

  1. Raw (bare, unplated) copper
  2. Copper solder
  3. A torch that gets hot enough for the job (all of Rings & Things’ micro torches work fine for this — but a soldering iron does not get hot enough)
  4. A firing surface — I use a magnesia soldering block on top of a ceramic fire block on top of an old cookie sheet.
  5. Something to grab melty-hot metal items. Check out the tweezers listed & linked in this kit.

Generally, you’ll drop your freshly-soldered item in a pickle pot or a metal can full of cool water. And there are safety considerations … you don’t really want to catch your clothing or kitchen/craft table on fire, or breathe or splash unknown chemicals, so if you’re completely new to soldering, pick up a book like Simple Soldering, by Kate Ferrant Richbourg, or Soldering Made Simple, by Joe Silvera.

Here is my project:  Simple soldered links, for a bracelet or necklace.

2 links soldered, the next 3 ready to go.

2 links soldered, the next 3 ready to go.

3rd link being soldered

3rd link being soldered.

To make my loops, I used ring-bending pliers and the large side of Wubbers bail-making pliers to shape some quick links out of 16-gauge raw copper wire, and hammered them a bit on my metal block. Then I cut the ends nice and straight with flush cutters (You know solder doesn’t fill gaps, right? So your spots to be joined need to line up very cleanly … or your solder join is doomed or ugly), laid out a few links, and started soldering.

I soldered the quick way — torch in one hand, and spool of solder in the other hand. Heat up a link, then touch the solder to the joint, and fwoosh, it flowed. Sometimes a little too well, so my solder spots are a little globbier than they technically should be. So now I’m actually reading my copy of Kate Ferrant Richbourg’s Simple Soldering rather than just just flipping through and looking at the diagrams. Soon, I hope to pop in the DVD (included with the Simple Soldering book)!
The tips and techniques in Simple Soldering are all about silver soldering, but apply just as well to copper soldering.

One last tip based on questions I received at last weekend’s Bead Show: Do you know which part of the flame is hottest? You might think it is inside the brightest blue part of the flame, but it actually the darker space just past the tip of that bright blue inner cone.

Coming soon…. (now finished)
Next blog, I’ll share a technique to add beads (even fragile beads!) directly to links before soldering them!

~~Polly

Add color and shine with Gilders Paste

Monday, February 4th, 2013

I had the pleasure of testing out Gilders Paste, trying various methods and materials, and deciding I like it!

86-381-gilderspaste2

Rings & Things has added an assortment of colors.  Each tin is 1.5 oz of wax-based medium, and is enough to cover 30 square feet of metal, wood, resin, et cetera.

You can apply Gilders Paste with a cloth, cotton swab, or fingertip.  Thin with paint thinner, turpenoid (but not turpenoid natural) or mineral spirits to transform the highly concentrated Gilders Paste for brushing, sponging, staining, washing or spray painting.

I suggest having the following tools handy when you plan to colorize with Gilders Paste:

  • Soft Rag (an old cotton t-shirt worked well)
  • Baby Wipes
  • Small Mixing cup
  • Disposable (cheap) small paint brushes
  • Palette
  • Stir Sticks
  • Mineral Spirits – from the hardware or craft store.
  • Non Stick Craft Sheet
  • Apron

I don’t really mind getting my hands dirty.  I didn’t have the foresight to use a craft sheet, so the table was gilded along with the objects.  After I was done, the plastic table cleaned up good as new with some mineral spirits, and my hands cleaned up fine with soap and water.  If you are more particular (and don’t want any gilding of your fingernails), you may want to wear latex gloves.

Drying time varies depending on substrate and surface preparation, approximately 60 minutes to the touch on dry debris-free surfaces and 12 hours for complete cure time. If polishing or burnishing is required, allow 12 hours drying time.

Rubbing the base coat immediately after application with a dry cloth or slightly wet with thinner will remove Gilders Paste from the relief detail and highlight depressed details.  Lightly brushing Gilders Paste over the top will highlight the relief details.

This is patina color on a reproduction Ching dynasty coin.  I scraped a little paste out of the tin, and then wet the paint brush with mineral spirits and mixed it together on the palette until I had a paintable consistency.

mineral spirits

I put on a fairly thick coat.

44-062 with patinaAfter an hour or so, I buffed off the excess paste, and this was the result (with a  un-gilded example for contrast).

44-062 patina buffedThis is a nice use of the Gilders Paste for faux aging.

The color was a bit paler than I hoped for so I mixed some african bronze paste into my patina color.

patina and african bronzeI painted a new layer of paste onto the opposite side of the coin, and the new color was more to my liking.

44-062 dark patinaThis is a filigree cross in antiqued copper plating, which I colored with verdigris Gilders Paste.  For this color, I still mixed in the mineral spirits, but I applied the color with a stir stick.  verdigris cross

After drying and buffing, the verdigris color is subtle, but it counters the reddishness of the copper metal.

verdigris cross compare

This color was nice, but I wanted a bit more shine, so I layered german silver Gilders Paste over the verdigris.

german silver filigree crossHere is the filigree with the metallic layer lightly buffed off, and the original plating for contrast.

german silver filigree cross buffedToo much of the verdigris was covered now, so I went back in for a 3rd layer, verdigris paste on top of the previous two applications.  After some more drying and buffing time, this was my final result:

filigree cross final

My next experiment involved resin flowers.  I was curious about the results on a highly dimensional, non-metallic item.  I thinned out violet Gilders Paste, and applied it to 3 colors of resin flower with a paintbrush.

violet paste on resin flowersAfter drying, this was too tricky to just buff with a cloth, so I touched up the high points with my cloth, and then used a dry brush to remove excess paste from the crevices.  The two lower flowers are un-colored.  The flowers with the paste have an almost velvety look to them.

colored resin flowers

This is another antiqued copper plated filigree.  The piece on the right has iris blue Gilders Paste applied directly with a cloth.  The piece on the left has been layered.  White Gilders Paste on the filigree makes the iris blue top layer more visible.   Both of these are dried and buffed.

blue iris filigreeNext I tried colorizing some silver plated wavy disk beads.  I thinned out the iris blue and damson pastes, and applied them to the beads with a brush.  This is after buffing, with a shiny bead in the center for contrast.  The lighter the metal color is to start with, the greater contrast the paste seems to make.

wavy disksI tried out the rusty red pinotage color Gilders Paste on both silver plated flower charms and antique brass filigree.  This was my chance to paint the flowers red.   For these items, I added a bit of mineral spirits to my brush, and conditioned some of the paste directly in the tin.

pinotageLastly, I wanted to mix colors, as opposed to layering them.  I mixed the pinotage with the german silver Gilders Paste in the palette.  Both of these colors happened to be creamier than some others, so I didn’t need to thin them down.  I applied this mixture by brush to a raw brass filigree and got a lovely metallic pink finish.

metallic pink

The manufacturer says Gilders Paste will be permanent in 24 hours.  It will accept an over coat such as clear lacquer, varnish, urethane, or powder coating to achieve a uniform appearance where the paste was not used, or to provide further durability to areas where repeated handling is required, such as a door knob.  Due to the anticipated increased wear for jewelry, I tested 4 different products for sealing Gilders Paste.

The first 3 sealers all worked great.  The spray sealer was the easiest to use, but the fumes from it can be quite obnoxious.

spray sealed filigree

I sealed one of the filigree crosses with the glaze, and the other with glossy accents.  To me they look identical.

sealed crossesThe renaissance wax, however, provided unanticipated results.  Due to the cleaning components of this product, it stripped most of the color from the item I applied it to.   The disk on the left was the original gilded iris blue wavy disk.  The disk on the right has had renaissance wax applied, which lightened the color.  It is good to know that this may work to lighten a color without fully removing it if that is ever your desired effect.

waxed disk

Be aware that the consistency of this product will vary from color to color and from tin to tin.  If you have a tin with creamy consistency, enjoy it.  If the product is crumbly, (whether it came that way, or you left the lid open) don’t ever consider it “bad”.  You can re-constitute the paste with mineral spirits, a few drops at a time.

So, having tried Gilders Paste, I’m hooked.  Now I need to figure out what colors to buy to start my collection.   ~  Rita

 

EnCapture Artisan Concrete

Monday, February 4th, 2013

We tested the new EnCapture Artisan Concrete Kit!

This “unique texture-rich medium for jewelry making is designed for embedding treasures such as glass, gemstones, metal, buttons, wire and beads to create visual interest and contrast.  Here are some tips for using it!

Mixing: We found the easiest way to mix the concrete was making a slurry (or thin paste) by putting a small amount of the base material in the mixing cup and adding the activator. To the slurry, mix in the base material and pigment incrementally until you have achieved the desired color and consistency.

Application:  You can extend the life of your concrete while you are working by covering the mixing cup with a damp paper towel. We recommend you remove excess concrete from your embedded treasures as you work using a damp paper towel, cotton swab or toothpick. It is easier to remove when it is moist than after it starts to dry.

initial cleaning

Work Time:  As the concrete starts setting within 5 minutes, you must work quickly!  Pre-arranging your design is very helpful.  We found it easiest to trace the bezel, and to mock-up the arrangement on paper.  This allows you to quickly and precisely place each item when it is time.   
Green Cat Encaptured Pendant
Design:  Including small beads in your design is easiest if you string them first (this way they can’t roll and move as easily). For a more elaborate or mosaic-style design, setting your treasures with a dab of two-part epoxy glue is recommended. Glue your items in place and allow the glue to fully dry before applying concrete.  
treasures glued in place

Hamsa Hand in Heart Mosaic Necklace – Tutorial

Finishing Touches:  If you do not like large grains of sand from the concrete being visible in your design, you may be able to bury them by gently poking them down into the wet concrete with a toothpick.

Once the product has cured, for a beautiful golden sheen, the brass brush works wonders!  If you do not want to alter the color of your finished piece, gently clean around embedded treasures with the straight carver.

3

In addition to the tools and supplies provided in the kit, we found the following tools and supplies very helpful:
* Damp paper towels/moist towelettes
* Extra wood mixing sticks
* Cotton swabs
* Tablet & pencil
* Extra disposable plastic mixing cups
* Extra dust masks
* Extra disposable gloves
EnCapture Primitive Heart 1
Links:
  • The kit
  • Bezel Cups (for this concrete product, deeper bezels work better than shallow bezels)