Archive for the ‘Featured Bead’ Category

How to make a sliding adjustable necklace

Thursday, June 23rd, 2011

…with no knots! This easy leather necklace design uses sliding cord adjusters that simply glue on to the ends of the cord.  Push the ends closer together to shorten the necklace. Pull the ends away from each other to lengthen it.

My example is with 2mm olive green Greek leather, but you can use any round cord except rattail with this technique (rattail is just too slippery). Just match the size of your cord to the inner diameter (ID) of the cord end. The cord ends are available in four sizes and four platings: gunmetal and antiqued brass, copper and silver.

  1. Measure your cord. My technique: take your desired finished length and add 12″. For my 18″ necklace I used 30″ of leather.
  2. Center your beads or pendant. (I used 5 silver plated leaves. To keep them in place, I just flattened their loops slightly with my flat nose pliers.)
  3. Slide a cord end onto each end. Make sure that the bottoms of the closed tubes are pointing towards the center of your necklace.
  4. Glue the cord ends into the opposite open adjuster tubes. Make sure the cord touches the bottom of the tube, and be sure to clean up any glue drips before they dry. I used Eco-Glue because it works with both metal and fabric. Tenax is another good option, especially if you don’t like waiting!

That’s all there is to it! Too easy, right? The only problem you might encounter is the cord not fitting the cord end. Since most types of cord, and the ends themselves, may vary in diameter +/- 10%, this is a fairly common problem, but a simple one to fix.  Try mitering (cutting at an angle) or rolling the ends to make them a tad thicker or thinner.   ~ Cindy

 

Silk ribbon necklaces: how to finish the ends

Friday, June 10th, 2011

Ever wanted to turn a pretty ribbon into a necklace, but weren’t sure how to make it wearable? Here are a few of our favorite methods for finishing the ends of silk ribbons.

1.  Add a clasp – any clasp!

Simply string large-hole spacer beads or jump rings, then one half of your clasp, onto one ribbon tail. Thread the tail back through the spacers/jump rings and tie a knot on the end.  Slide the spacers/rings to adjust the necklace length.  Mollie used a button and oval link to form the clasp on this sweet pea pod design, but you could any kind of clasp. You could also omit the spacers/rings and just tie the clasp to the ribbon for a non-adjustable design.

With the jumbo lobster clasp, I just tied a loop on the opposite end instead of adding a ring.

2. Glue on necklace adjusters

Since the silk ribbon has tapered ends, Rita folded the ends over two times to make them fit securely into the adjusters. She used G-S Hypo Cement for a secure fabric-to-metal bond with no mess.

3. Bolo!

To create a bolo necklace, just connect a bolo slide to the back of a pendant and slide it onto the ribbon. While Jaci titled her piece Sweet Lolita, I can’t help thinking of it as Bolo Betty. She designed it, so she wins of course.

4. Tube bead slider (not pictured)

Run both ends of the ribbon through a large-hole tube bead, running opposite directions or in the same direction: either way works. Tie knots on the ends, and add some embellishments if you like.  Search our design gallery for “Mollie ribbon” to see Love Letters and Love in the Mist, both of which use this technique.

5. Just tie a bow!

Seems too obvious, right? Although it might feel “unfinished,” this method is comfortable, adjustable and it allows you to remove the pendant.

We’ll cover how to finish flat ribbon, like velvet, and round cording, like leather, in future blog posts. Let me know if you’d like tips for any other materials! ~ Cindy

Product spotlight – new large-hole metal beads

Wednesday, June 1st, 2011

I’m not one to exaggerate, but really, we’ve got a bazillion new metal beads in our online store! Most of them have large holes, too – perfect for all the leather and Pandora-style jewelry that is so popular these days.

Toni’s bracelet design allows the cube bead to make a statement.

Whether you prefer antiqued silver, antiqued brass or antiqued copper in your jewelry designs, there are tons of new bead options with strong geometric shapes, fancy details and great textures. A few of my favorites include:

New summery flower beads in antiqued brass and silver.

Hollow metal barrel beads that remind me of Donkey Kong!

Tube beads and other unique shapes with hammered texture.

I don’t know exactly what this will end up being, but these chunky tube beads told me they wanted to be strung on leather with our new larger-hole shell pearls.  We shall see!

The future of this piece is a mystery at this point!

Finally, here are a pair of earrings Toni made. What a great go-with-everything design! For variety, it would be easy to add a splash of color or sparkle by capping the dotty tube beads with small gemstones or crystals.

West Yin earrings.

Do metal beads inspire you to add bright colors or to keep in neutral? I would love to hear what kind of combinations you come up with! ~ Cindy

How to use heat to patina brass charms and filigrees

Thursday, March 31st, 2011
bee charms, raw and with heat patina

One before and two after applying heat patina. Check out the rainbows on the middle bee!

Ah, brass. Beautiful brass. I love everything about using brass in my handmade jewelry … except its raw brassiness.  Brass is affordable, easy to work with and available in all kinds of fun charms and filigrees. And while giving raw brass an antique patina with an oxidizing solution such as Win-Ox really is not difficult, my favorite method of coloring brass is the torch! It tones down that brash brassiness to a beautiful warm glow that is infinitely more appealing to my eye.

bee charm torch

Torching the bee charm only took a few seconds.

Applying heat to give metal a patina is so easy – and clean! No chemicals, no rinsing, no waiting! Sometimes you can even get shimmery rainbows to appear by holding the heat on a few extra seconds.

Heat patina raw brass filigree

Raw brass filigree, before and after meeting the torch flame.

You all know to set up a heat proof work area before firing up your torch. This can be as simple as a cookie sheet. Tie back your hair, wear safety glasses and just plain BE SAFE. Do your homework before you start. A great book that explains all the necessities for working with a torch is Soldering Made Simple by Joe Silvera.

Butane is widely available at hardware stores.

Don’t feel fired up to experiment? You can buy Vintaj natural brass jewelry components, which have already undergone a chemical-free process to give them their rich color. Plated brass filigrees are also available. But I encourage you to try heat patina. It is the safest way to let your inner pyromaniac out to play!

Velvet ribbon adds a luxurious feel to this brass bracelet.

Here is a gorgeous brass jewelry example by Mollie to inspire you! She soldered a raw brass bee to a Vintaj connector to make this bracelet, and used both heat and Win-Ox to patina the pieces. Full parts list and instructions for Blue Honey are available in our design gallery. ~ Cindy


PS: here are some handy links to some other how-to’s in the Rings & Things blog!