It is easy to etch your own designs into metal for jewelry. This tutorial will teach you how!
Rubber stamp designs etched into brass sheet metal.
Before you begin, please read the safety considerations for etching metal with chemicals blog post.
You’ll also probably want to read the design considerations for etching metal blog post too!
Now, here are the steps for etching metal with ferric chloride:
1. Choose your metal(s). Ferric chloride works on copper, brass and nickel silver. It will not work on actual silver (fine or sterling). Do NOT use ferric chloride on aluminum. Metal as thin as 24-gauge can be etched – just leave it in for less time than you would for thicker metal. If you want to etch both sides or etch really deeply, use at least 20-gauge metal.
2. Clean metal with Penny Brite (our favorite) or an abrasive cleaner and scrubbie. The metal must be very clean. Water will sheet off (not bead up) on the surface when it is truly clean.
3. Apply resist. Stazon ink, Sharpies, toner transfers – there are many options! (Read the design considerations.)
A combination of rubber stamps and hand-drawn Sharpie doodles decorate the large copper sheet. The "C" was done with a PnP blue toner transfer.
4. Cover all areas that should not be etched with ink or durable tape. This includes the back, sides and inside any holes.
It would have been less messy to ink the edges before putting the tape on the back.
5. Pour 3/4 – 1″ of etchant into a non-reactive container (glass or plastic). If you are etching more than one type of metal, use a separate container for each. If desired, add a teaspoon of citric acid to “boost” the etching action.
A little citric acid (from the grocery store) accelerates the etching action, but is not required.
6. Attach metal to a styrofoam float “boat” and place in etchant. Suspending the metal into the bath with tape is another option. Just make sure the metal is submerged yet isn’t touching the bottom of the container.
A boat ready to float!
Boat floating with metal face-down in the chemical bath.
7. Allow to float for 30-90 minutes, depending on depth of etch desired. Nickel silver tends to take longer than copper or brass because it contains just 65% copper. (The rest is nickel and zinc.)
Etched design is clearly visible - this piece is ready to be cleaned.
8. Scrub metal clean in a tub of water. Use baking soda to neutralize the acid if desired. Some people use a weak ammonia bath to really make sure the acid is removed. Cleaning all the etchant off is important, as it will stain.
That’s it! You’ll probably want to patina the metal with liver of sulfur or another oxidizer to really bring out the definition in your design.
Using steel wool to buff the patina off the high points.
Ferric chloride can be reused several times. Once it is exhausted (typically after about 3 uses), consult your local waste management system for guidance on disposing of it.
Rita wrote on a copper washer with Sharpie to make the etched center link on this bracelet.
Happy creating! Use the “print friendly” option to print these instructions – with or without pictures! Questions are always welcome too. ~ Cindy
PDF Tags: chemical etching, copper etching, create designs on metal, DIY jewelry etching, how to etch brass, how to etch copper, how to use ferric chloride, making etched jewelry, metal etching tutorial
Great tutorial, thank you! I did this once with a friend and would love to try it again on my own. Nice to have the step by step instructions. I like your idea for the float – that looks easier than how we did it.
This is pretty much what I did this summer, but I used a different etching chemical, and the name is escaping me at the moment. My question is this – we I tried using stamps (with red stazon ink) the stamp would slide around on the metal, creating an unsuitable stamping image – especially with the larger stamps. Is there a trick, or can you offer any guidance on how to do that? I found that my best etches turned out to be the ones where I used the sharpie resist.
Thanks!
Hi Angie! It might help to scuff up the surface of the metal with steel wool or a green scrubby pad first. That gives the metal a little “tooth” or grip to keep the stamp from sliding around so much. Amongst our designers, there are a few who are rubber stamping pros – and a few of us who are completely deficient! I think it must take some practice. We kept the Stazon cleaner close at hand to remove the oops and try again.
Thanks Jami! Hope you have fun etching. I think the floats are a nice idea – the other way (making a tape sling across the etching bath – is that what you did too?) is kind of difficult to undo, especially when you’re wearing gloves.