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Sterling Silver contains at least 92.5% silver. The most common sterling alloy is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. Tarnish resistant Argentium™ sterling is 1.2% germanium, 6.3% copper and 92.5% silver. Fine silver, sometimes stamped .999, is 99.9% pure silver, which means it is softer and more malleable than sterling. Sterling components and jewelry made in the USA are often stamped "sterling." Goods made for international trade are often marked "925" indicating the 92.5% fineness. "Coin" silver is used in some countries and could be marked "900" or "800" depending on fineness.

Other possible markings are less clear. "Mexican Silver," "German Silver," "Indian Silver," "Montana Silver" and simply "silver" do not guarantee any silver content. "German Silver," "Alpacca," and "Alpaca" are merely other names for the alloy of copper, nickel and zinc usually called "nickel silver." Despite the name, nickel silver contains no silver.

In many countries, precious metal must be stamped with a quality mark such as "925" for sterling. Some countries require jewelry madeof precious metal be submitted to a governmental assay office for destructive testing before being marked and sold.

Sterling Silver is very easy to test. Silver-plated brass, nickel silver or low quality silver alloys will turn green when a drop of nitric acid is applied because of the high copper content. Sterling will turn a creamy color. When testing suspect goods, a small file can be used to cut through any plating or lacquer in a discreet area on the item.

In the USA, The National Gold and Silver Marketing Act does not require precious metals to be marked with quality. However, if a quality mark is used, the mark must be accompanied by a manufacturer's hallmark that is a registered trademark or the name of the manufacturer. If there is ever a question about the content of a piece of jewelry, the manufacturer can be traced using the hallmark stamped on the piece. This accountability is particularly important in gold jewelry. A devious manufacturer could mark a piece 18kt when, in fact, it was 10kt and worth one-third less on gold content alone.

For many reasons, not all silver jewelry is marked. For one thing, registering a trademark costs over $1,000. Makers may choose to not spend so much money for a legal hallmark. Small-time artists and Native American silversmiths rarely trademark their work. Furthermore, the sizes or designs of some pieces do not lend themselves to quality markings. Findings and components, for example are often not quality stamped. Users of finished components, however, can choose to attach a mark to the finished piece (for example on a chain tab). US law does now allow the maker's name in place of a trademark or hallmark. This satisfies the accountability at the heart of the US stamping act.

In summary:

1. Sterling silver must be at least 92.5% silver.
2. US Law does not require precious metal to be marked with a quality stamp.
3. Some European countries do require marking. Many tourists in the US will question goods sold without markings that indicate precious-metal quality.
4. US law requires a maker's mark in the form of a hallmark or registered trademark in addition to the quality mark if the goods are quality marked. The name of the artist or manufacturer may now be used for this.

Sources:

Federal Trade Commission, National Gold and Silver Marketing Act
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel-gd.htm
15 USC 297

Jeweler's Vigilance Committee
www.jvclegal.org

Manufacturing Jewelers and Silversmiths of America

Jeweler's Resource, Reference book by Bruce G. Knuth

JEWELRY Concepts and Technology, Reference book by Oppi Untracht

Written June 2000 and last revised March 2007, by:
Russ Nobbs, Owner
Rings & Things PO Box 450 Spokane, WA USA
509-252-2900